Having ran my Tamiya M-05 for a couple of months now, I feel I'm beginning to learn how to drive the car. What I haven't done yet is to fully understand how setup changes have an affect on the car's handling. I'm getting there but slowly. Thankfully Dave Allen and Brad Portelli from RC-Mini have been extremely helpful in posting their setups (and their approach to setting up) and my car seems to be performing well at the moment - due to the fact I'm using Dave's and Brad's setups! Anyway, if it's any help to you (and so that I have record of my setup in case I forget) I'm going to publish my setup for your information.
Choice of M-05 Parts
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| Stock Tamiya M-05 Rear Hub |
First off, I don't run many blue bits on my car. The exceptions to this are the Taniya #54236 Front Shock Stay and the Yeah Racing Aluminium Steering Set. Although I bought my car second-hand in the belief that it was a M-05 Pro, it was in actual fact a moderately hopped-up M-05, so it didn't have any of the lovely blue Tamiya alloy bits. So as you can tell from the pictures below, I'm running the plastic stock Tamiya M-05 rear hub and front steering uprights.
Steering
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| Stock Tamiya M-05 Steering uprights |
On the stock Tamiya M-05 Steering uprights, I've used the rear hole. Andy Travis (SPC-UK 2011 Mini Champion) uses the front hole on his M-05, although he is running the Tamiya Option steering uprights.
Suspension
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| Tamiya #54236 Front Shock Stay |
As discussed in an earlier post, I'm using the #54236 Front Shock Stay. I've mounted the shocks on the outermost hole - this gives the front shocks a very upright stance. I'm not sure how much the front suspension has been stiffened by going from the stock M-05 setup to this, but I've noticed that my corner entry is nicer (more gradual).
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| Rear Shock Spring Compression |
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| Front Shock Spring Compression |
At the rear, I'm running Fastrax 50WT shock oil with 3 piston holes. I'm using the yellow springs from the #53333 Short Spring Set. Ride height is about 4mm, I try to keep it very low to keep the C of G low and to minimize roll at the rear. I generally run the rear slightly lower than the front in terms of ride height, I think this tends to make the car quite stable. Compression of the spring is 2.95mm.
Transmission
When I bought my M-05, it had already been fitted with a Tamiya M-05 Ball Diff. I found the diff OK, but to get decent drive out of the corners this particular diff needed tightening more than the diff bolt could really manage. The consequence of this was, either risk snapping the bolt and making the diff unserviceable, or run it as it is, accepting that the diff will slip under hard acceleration. This, to me, was not a great state of affairs, and I was actually looking around for a TA-03 Ball Diff, when I happened to read Dave Allen's blog about his new 3Racing oil-filled gear diff. I finally tracked down a supplier, Reality Racing, and fitted my new diff in the car, taking Dave's advice to use a light silicone diff oil. I use #5000 Fastrax Diff Oil in my diff. Make sure you fit the 'blades' supplied onto the dogbone end of your universal driveshafts to cut down wear of the diff outdrives.
Gearing-wise, I'm running Tamiya stock gearing as supplied in the Tamiya G parts bag for the M-05. We run with a HPI Saturn 20T Motor at Chippenham Model Car Club, in the CWIC, and at the SPC-UK Championship, so stock gearing and a 20T pinion is what is fitted at the moment. This suits the rules of the SPC-UK and also the limited track size at Chippenham. I'll be looking at gearing up using the 3Racing Fast Gear Set for the CWIC as I understand it has a much larger track size.
I'll update this post with a bit more info about the servo, speedo etc when I have a little more time.
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